Like many L.A. neighborhoods,
San Miguel de Allende is being remade by well-heeled Americans.
February
24, 2007
I SPENT LAST
Sunday in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, with a group of more than
500 Americans gawking at the designer homes of other Americans.
Needless
to say, I was thrilled to learn about this particular tourist activity.
Being away from home is unsettling enough, but being away on a
Sunday and missing out on open-house tours is downright colon-blocking.
What good is a weekend, after all, that does not include at least
one voyeuristic jaunt into the home of a stranger? Why go to a
stuffy museum or the bug-infested park when you can fondle people's
countertops with impunity?
Americans
know that open houses aren't just the new museums, they're the
new church! The people of San Miguel de Allende know that too,
because a lot of them are Americans. Nestled in the mountains of
eastern Guanajuato state, San Miguel has a population of about
100,000, a sizable portion of which comes from the U.S. or Canada.
To maneuver along the narrow cobblestone sidewalks of San Miguel
is to hear purse-clutching English speakers rhapsodizing about
a new deodorant or comparing a Jaguar parked on the street to the
one they keep back in the States.
Because many
of the property owners shuttle between San Miguel and their El
Norte homelands, it's hard to tell exactly how big the gringo invasion
is. When I arrived, my friend the B&B owner said it was 7%
of the population. A few days later, a taxi driver told me 15%.
When I got home, I checked Wikipedia, which says expatriates (mostly
U.S. nationals) may be 40% to 50% of the population. A fourfold
increase in less than a week! Now that's growth.
You can usually
tell how well a place is doing by the way its citizens entertain
themselves. If keno parlors and dive bars that double as pancake
houses are hallmarks of dying towns, wealthier places can be discerned
by the availability of paint-your-own-ceramic-pot studios and the
enthusiasm people bring to the Sunday open house.
And because
the only thing affluent San Miguel de Allende residents seem to
love more than ceramics are designer homes in which they can display
them, a bunch of smart full- and part-time expats got together
and created the House and Garden Tour. It operates nearly every
Sunday, and anyone with $15 (which benefits the public library)
can pile into buses and be ferried around for a fix of high-end
local color.
Everyone,
even the property owners, wears name tags identifying home cities
or states. I heard one Oregonian describe to another her half-price
Mexican face-lift. Minnesotans talked wind chill with other Minnesotans.
I found a guy from West Hollywood, and we rode together like an
exclusive little clique, comparing different neighborhoods in L.A.
and dishing Britney Spears.
The first
house we visited was a sprawling, boxy, contemporary estate about
15 miles outside of town. It was owned by a ceramic artist and
relationship-book author from the Bay Area. and was notable for,
among other things, a master suite with an indoor/outdoor shower
and a bathtub shaped exactly to the relationship-book author's
proportions. There was a separate art studio, an infinity pool
and a dog-washing bathroom.
The second
house, a new colonial-style manse with papyrus waving in the garden,
was in town on a street so narrow that we had to walk four blocks
from the bus to reach it. As we marched through a park, children
played nearby, a couple of actual Mexicans talked animatedly on
their cellphones and a 1980s Wham! song played in the background — the
one with George Michael singing the line "guilty feet have
got no rhythm," only the melody was played by a pan flute
to give it a kind of south-of-the-border flavor.
It was at
this point that I realized that if I really wanted a taste of Mexico,
I might as well go home to Echo Park. The tour wasn't so much a
backstage pass to aspirational cultural immersion as it was an
English-only how-to guide for getting away from it all without
giving anything up. Each dwelling was mostly notable for just how
thoroughly the householders had managed to bring the comforts of
the north into the wilds of the south.
I also realized
that there was a certain irrelevance, even tedium, to touring a
house that wasn't for sale (as fun as it was to spy on someone's
dog-washing bathroom). That's because no matter how unaffordable,
impractical or downright awful a house may be, if it's for sale,
it carries an unmistakable aura of possibility. It also makes us
think about our values and tastes, our financial stability, our
courage and our fears. We're forced, if even on an abstract level,
to consider the bigger picture — property
taxes, the school system, commute times to work. Or even potable
water.
Getting inside a house that's
for sale is kind of like dating someone who's single and available,
whereas walking into a house just to admire its superior design (and
the cash it took it implement it) is like mooning over a celebrity.
It's a nice distraction for a while, but then you feel kind of stupid.
Maybe that's
why I've been feeling a little dull since I returned home (or maybe
it's that I still have the Wham! song in my head). Thank God tomorrow's
Sunday. There are a couple houses with "for sale" signs
on them that I can't wait to check out. I've also got this great
idea for a new bathroom.