Celebrating the shortest
day of the year from the prettiest spot in L.A.
December
23, 2006
MOST CLICHES,
particularly those related to Los Angeles, are rooted in some semblance
of reality. But the notion that the L.A. region is a vast strip
mall whose only outdoor attractions involve surfing and driving
around in convertibles has always irked me. Last month in Ojai,
which is close enough to the city that you'd think people would
know better, a woman who knew I was from L.A. saw my dog sniffing
some tree roots and said, "I bet he doesn't get to do that
very often."
So when I
heard about 4th District Councilman Tom LaBonge's winter solstice
hike in Griffith Park, I felt a civic duty to join in.
In case you
were waiting for a parking spot at the Grove and didn't notice,
Thursday was the official start of winter and the shortest day
of the year. In less depressing terms, that means that Thursday
(4:22 p.m. to be exact) marked the winter solstice in the Northern
Hemisphere, one of two times each year when the sun is farthest
from the equator. (There's also a summer solstice on June 21, but
it causes the days to be longer. Don't ask me to explain why — I
was an English major.)
For the last
decade, LaBonge has been leading hikes in Griffith Park to mark
these occasions and remind his constituency just why they endure
the high cost of living here. At 3:30 on Thursday, about 100 of
us gathered at the foot of a trail near Roosevelt Golf Course for
a half-mile hike to Griffith Observatory. As LaBonge led his flock
up the trail, boisterously pointing out the scenery and, at one
point, waving at a low-flying LAPD helicopter, I felt like we were
Christmas carolers who didn't need to sing. So wholesome and low
key was this scene that every cliche about L.A. was momentarily
erased from my mind. Then a woman handed me a business card that
described her as a "visionary." When I asked her what
that meant, she said she specialized in "seeing possibilities." She
also said she was a compulsive networker and would be e-mailing
me soon.
Emerging
from the trail to the lawn of the observatory, we were met by TV
news crews. After some milling about, LaBonge stood at a podium,
where the mike was not working, and shouted an introduction for
observatory director Dr. Edwin C. Krupp, who then shouted an explanation
of the astronomy behind the solstice. LaBonge noted that more people
have looked through the observatory's Zeiss telescope than any
other telescope on the planet. This was followed by several rounds
of cheering about the splendor of Los Angeles in general and Griffith
Park in particular.
OK, so the
hike turned out to be a preamble to a political photo opportunity
(and I discovered it's difficult to stuff upward of 10 business
cards into the pockets of a Polartec vest), but here's the thing:
Los Angeles may not have as outdoorsy a reputation as, say, Boulder,
Colo., but for a place as urban and global and complex as this,
our ability to get out and walk around in nature (and in relative
solitude much of the time) is pretty impressive. There might have
been an element of high school pep rally to this event, but its
core message — "For God's sake, take a hike, people!" — was
absolutely true.
So at 4:22
p.m., the winter solstice occurred. There was more cheering and
more speechifying. But the action wasn't over.
In the ensuing
24 minutes, the crowd at the Griffith Observatory experienced an
event that, given the vantage point and the crispness of the air
and maybe the spirit of the holidays, had an extraordinary flavor
to it. During those minutes, the sun set with a precision and grace
that can only be described as the perfect intersection of art and
science. As bright as it was, we stared straight at it as it fell
like a water droplet below the clouds, below the tops of buildings
and gently into the Pacific Ocean. A woman took out her cellphone
and described the scene to the person on the other end.
Oddly enough,
this wasn't irritating. In fact, it was the only truly necessary
cellphone conversation I've overheard in ages.